Hadigaon

C: Images from our first home in Nepal. I think we were there for only a week or so. We had no idea what to expect as the Fulbright makes it their policy not to show any pictures of the apt you choose prior to arrival. It was a crap shoot. Upon arrival, I was comforted by the fact that it was an apt in a private dwelling. The owner was the former Police Chief- we felt safe, the family was super nice, helpful and accommodating. We had our only internet connection thus far at that place. Unfortunately, as it was a basement apt, it was quite dark, a bit moist, and very dusty (not to mention the mint green walls and blue curtains). Not so conducive to Piero's painting and way to conducive to my "weather induced depression." (Please consider that blackouts increase exponentially as the year comes to an end.) Hadigaon is full of Hindu shrines and temples and living just across from the Ganesh Temple, we were awakened everyday at 4am by bells, a marching band of sorts and many many dogs. (Dogs roam free everywhere) I miss it a bit, it's funny how quickly you'll attach yourself and make "home" when you're in such unfamiliar territory. It was nice while it lasted but we moved on to finer pastures. In keeping with recent tradition, we moved.

P: The first morning, or I should say night, it was very surprising, because we didn't know. At a certain point, in the midst of 13 hours difference surreal jet lag, the kind where you feel like you have taken acid, the sounds of cymbals and the symphonic barking of dogs, each performing a singular melody, started to distill our first dawn in Kathmandu. As the week progressed the cymbals where accompanied by a full horn band (as C mentioned), which would sort of roam in front of the temple. I tried to make some sound recordings, but they would only play for a handful of seconds at a time, causing me to repetitively get up turn on the mic only to have them stop for an indeterminate amount of time. I would then turn the mic off, and they would begin again. I repeated this for a number of times and a number of days.

C: Oh and by the way, our first steps alone, beyond the gate above, were how do you say... terrifying. Not only was I nervous that we would never find our way back, being that in Nepal there are no street addresses, so we had none to give if we'd gotten lost, no phone to call anyone for help, we were also the total spectacle. Deep inside my secret place, deep in my soul, I have to be completely honest, it made me feel damned crazy (and still do, of course without all the insecure stuff) having people stare at me ALL THE TIME, I wondered, what have I done wrong... I'm wearing the most conservative clothes I have and I've covered myself with a shawl. There is nothing that you can do to "downplay" the fact that you are totally and utterly foreign.

P: I felt terrified as well, but also really excited. As I took those first steps out my head was almost spinning, my mind was a cloud of a million thoughts, and through my veins ran something that had a lot in common with electricity. I remember feeling like I was floating all the while feeling ultra-aware of myself and somewhat awkward. The surroundings were completely unfamiliar.